Monthly Archives: May 2014

Oliver + S Free Sunny Day Shorts Pattern

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A couple of weeks ago, Oliver + S released a new free pattern, the Sunny Day Shorts. It is a basic, easy, pull-on shorts pattern for boys or girls.

I decided to try making a pair for Owen yesterday. I’m very happy with the pattern and how they turned out.

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They were easy to make and came together very quickly. What’s even better is that I used a scrap of fabric I had left over from when I made my grey skinny jeans. I love finding uses for my scraps.

I decided to add front pockets to the shorts. I did this by borrowing the front pockets from my Oliver + S Field Trip Cargo Pants pattern. I put the Field Trip front pattern piece on top of the Sunny Day front pattern piece and traced the shape of the Field Trip pocket onto the Sunny Day pattern. Then I used the front pocket piece from the Field Trip Cargos to make the facing and pocket bag. It fit just right.

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I added a square pocket to the back. I embroidered Owen’s name on the back pocket, but you can’t really see it because I used grey thread.

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I sewed a couple of rows of stitching through the elastic in the waist. I always do that because I like how it looks, and it keeps the elastic from rolling.

I love these simple shorts. They’re perfect for my boys to wear all summer long and I plan on making a bunch of them.

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Project Fails

So I made a pair of those Jamie Jeans I talked about in my last post. Well, I almost made them. I haven’t hemmed them or put on belt loops.

I made a muslin, and I thought I had the crotch wrinkles under control. There was just a little bit of wrinkling there, but I thought for sure that when I put the waistband on it would pull the crotch up and the wrinkles would go away.

But that didn’t happen. There is a big, unsightly, horizontal wrinkle across the crotch area under the zipper.

See that awful wrinkle?!

See that awful wrinkle?!

It's even worse when my legs are close together.

It’s even worse when my legs are close together.

I have learned how to handle imperfections in the things I make, but I absolutely can’t handle the crotch wrinkles. I’m through with them.

I really like everything else about the Jamie Jeans, though.

The back is good.

The back is good.

Little front pockets are adorable.

Little front pockets are adorable.

I sent a message to Kenneth D. King (he taught the Craftsy class I took awhile back called Jeanius) asking him how to get rid of the wrinkles (I included a picture) . He told me to try taking a dart in the crotch, right where the big wrinkle is, and extend the dart over to the side seam. Then he said to add back in at the top waist what I took out in the dart so that the waist is still the right size. If that doesn’t work, then he said to try flattening out the crotch seam too. Those are very helpful suggestions and I think I’ll get it right one day.

I took some pictures of the Angela Wolf jeans (that I also talked about in my last post) that also have the crotch wrinkles.

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I drafted my own jeans pattern last year, and lately I’ve been wearing a pair of shorts I made from that pattern awhile back. I didn’t realize how good the crotch of those pants looks until now.

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There’s still a wrinkle but it’s a lot smaller and I think flattening out the crotch seam would take care of it.

What I don’t like about my pattern is the front pockets and the waistband (it’s not contoured). But I’m thinking that I could use the waistband and pockets from my Angela Wolf pattern with the body of my pattern and have some pretty rockin’ denim shorts.

We will see but for now, I’m taking a break from the crotch wrinkles to sew some nice, easy stuff.

Current Sewing

I haven’t posted any new projects for a little while. But I’ve still been sewing, although time has been limited because we went on a trip to visit family and the weather has been so delightful that we’ve been outside a lot.

I spent about a week making some capris for me from my Angela Wolf jeans pattern. I just finished them up yesterday, and I am not impressed. I haven’t been happy with the crotch in any of the jeans I’ve made from her pattern, and these are the worst.

I know the crotch is too long (I have a very short rise in the front) and I’ve been slowly shortening it with each pair. On this pair, I think I should have shortened the zipper part instead of the part under the zipper because now the zipper goes down too low and since the zipper doesn’t bend, there are strange wrinkles there in the crotch.

I was so mad about it after I finished them, but I got over it fast and I’m going to try a new pattern. Oliver + S started carrying other designer’s patterns besides just their own, and when I saw these Jamie Jeans I was very intrigued. The fit is exactly what I’m going for.

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I bought the pattern last night and put it together. Now I’m trying to alter it and then I’ll get ready to start. So that’s what I’ll be working on for the next little bit.

My Chevron Top And Seth’s Sunday Pants

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I have a colorful new top to wear. For this one, I used my scoop tee pattern as the base. Then I added some gathers to the neckline. To add the gathers, I used this little tutorial.

I wanted a bit of a fuller sleeve on this top, so I drafted a new one. But I made it too full. So next time I’ll have to back off a bit on that. But I think it’s okay. The sleeve does lend a free, hippy-like appearance, but I’m alright with that.

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I also added just a tad of width to the bottom of the pattern so that there would be more to gather in when I put the band on.

I really love this fabric. The colors and the huge chevrons just make me happy when I look at them.

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Also, I finished a pair of Sunday pants for Seth.

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He was already outgrowing his pair I made him a few months ago. I used my Oliver + S Art Museum Trousers pattern that I’ve talked about before.

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I must say that I’m so glad I can sew for Seth. We really struggled finding pants that fit him before I learned to sew, but now I can customize pants for him to have them fit. For these, he needed more room in the crotch (even with the largest size in the pattern) so I scooped the front and back crotch seams.

I also added more length to the rise in the back. And he needed more room in the hip area, so I used a 3/8″ seam allowance there instead of the 1/2″ the pattern came with. Then when I got down past the hip, I gradually came in until I was back at 1/2″ seam allowance because he didn’t need more room anywhere else.

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Jon’s Pants (Burda #6014)

I finished my first pair of pants for Jon, and I’m pretty excited about it. I used Burda pattern #6014 (Jochen):

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I chose Jon’s size based on the sizing chart, and I didn’t change one thing about the fit. I did do some of the construction differently than the instructions said to, though. I did the fly in the way that I learned from my Angela Wolf jeans Craftsy class because I feel like that’s a really good way to do a fly and I’m very comfortable with doing it that way. I had to slightly change the pattern pieces of the Burda pattern so I could do it this way.

It feels good to be able to say that I made everything Jon is wearing in this picture!

It feels good to be able to say that I made everything Jon is wearing in this picture!

I did the back welt pockets the way I learned from my Oliver + S Art Museum trousers pattern, and that was because I absolutely couldn’t understand what the Burda pattern was telling me to do. I took the welt pocket pattern pieces from my Oliver + S pattern (in Seth’s size) and made them bigger so they’d work in Jon’s pants.

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I also did the waistband the way I learned in my Angela Wolf class, again because I didn’t know what the heck the Burda pattern was saying to do.

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Well, I guess his belt is covering the waistband anyway.

I used a nice twill fabric from fabric.com and I’m going to make more out of twill because it’s nice stuff.

I think for next time, I will add some taper to the legs of the pants because there’s almost no taper from the knee down. But other than that, the pattern is a great fit for Jon.

Color Blocking A T-Shirt

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I made Ezra another t-shirt (with my pattern), color blocked this time. He had a friend over who had on a great color blocked t-shirt.

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So I based Ezra’s off of that one.

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First, I decided where I wanted to have the color blocking start and then I marked that on the front and back pieces of my pattern. I made sure the lines would match up on the front and back by aligning the pieces at the bottom of the armscye and marking where the lines should go.

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Can you see the cut lines I drew on there?

Then, I cut the pattern pieces apart and added a seam allowance to the new edges I just made.

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I added seam allowance to the new edges of my front and back body pieces, and my new front and back yokes.

I cut the body pieces out of one color, and the yoke, sleeve, and collar pieces out of another color. Then I serged the yokes to the body pieces and then topstitched the seam allowances down.

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I assembled the rest the usual way. I like how it turned out, and Ezra likes it too. Although he was sad there were no stripes on the sleeves of his shirt. Next time maybe.

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I got new clothing tags and I’m happy about that. My old ones were too girly to put in any of my boys’ clothes which was a real bummer since 4/5 of the time I’m sewing for boys. Now I can tag everything I make.

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