I made another pair of jeans. And it warmed up enough around here to take some pictures outside without freezing!
I used some Crescendo Stretch Denim from fabric.com, and it is nice. I was reluctant to spend that much per yard on fabric, but I like it enough to make it worth it.
I’ve made several pairs of these now, and I feel like it gets easier every time. The fit is getting better each time too. I really like how these fit, but I think I’ll add just a smidge of length to the back rise next time. They ride down a little low when I bend over and so I want the back a tad longer.
When I made my last pair of jeans, I had some problems with leg twisting. It was the first time I’ve had that problem, and I wasn’t sure exactly what to do. I re-listened to some of the sections in my Craftsy class with Angela Wolf on jeans making, and after listening to her I thought that I probably just didn’t pin well enough when I sewed the inseam and that the feed dogs on my sewing machine pulled one layer of fabric through faster than the other.
So for this pair, I pinned the heck out of them before sewing. My inseam aligned perfectly when I was finished sewing. I was pumped!
Then I sewed the outseams, and saw that the awful twisting was there again, just like in the last pair.
I decided not to topstitch the inseam so that you wouldn’t be able to see the twisting seam unless you looked really, really, closely.
You can see it in this picture if you do indeed look closely. It’s on the left leg.
I was pretty frustrated, so I did some reading and found out that leg twist is a very common problem with denim, since the weave of twill is diagonal.
While I was reading up on leg twist, I found the Ginger jeans Sewalong by Closet Case Files. I really liked how she explained a little bit about right hand twill, left hand twill, and broken weave twill in her Sourcing Denim sewalong segment. Broken weave twill was made to help prevent leg twist.
In her Cutting And Prepping segment, she gives a great way to cut the front and back pieces to help prevent the dreaded twist. She says to cut each piece separately, instead of folding the fabric over. Then you can better make sure that each piece is on grain.
She also says to rotate the pattern pieces 180 degrees when cutting the second front and the second back piece. I’m definitely going to do that from now on.
Anyway, I like this pair of jeans, even with the twisting. And I’m going to be very careful with my next pair and hopefully I’ll get ’em twistless.