Last August, I had a goal to make Jon two pairs of pants for work before he started teaching his new semester in September. I got one pair done, but the black twill I bought from fabric.com for his second pair has been sitting on a shelf just waiting for me to follow through with that second pair.
Last week I finally made them. I used the same Burda pattern that I have for his other two pairs of work pants I’ve made him. I like that pattern, but the legs are pretty wide. I wanted a more slim fit and we’ve taken the legs in with every pair. This time, I think we finally have the legs looking the way we want them.
Instead of using the Burda instructions for the welt pockets, I used the instructions from one of my Oliver + S patterns that has welt pockets. I made new pocket pieces that would work with those instructions because I understand how to do it that way.
Oh man, I did a dumb thing when making those welts, though. I think the pattern placement for the welt pockets is pretty low, so I moved them up. But I didn’t realize that I moved the pockets up a little higher than where the dart above the pocket ends. That’s a bad thing because after I got the pocket attached I realized that there was a bit of dart at the bottom of the pocket! It looked terrible-like a pucker in the fabric.
But I unpicked the pocket, pulled back the interfacing, unpicked the dart and started over and it all worked out in the end.
I have never liked interfacing and I’m not sure why, but I am slowly learning that interfacing has many virtues when used in the right situations. I didn’t interface the waistband in his first two pairs of pants, but I decided to interface this waistband and oh my goodness, it looked so much better. I wish I had thought to have Jon take his belt off so I could get some pictures of the waistband, but I didn’t. I will definitely be interfacing all his waistbands in his dress pants forevermore, though.
I studied all the details on his ready to wear dress pants while making these and tried to copy them. His storeboughts had a bar tack along the short ends of the welt pockets, so I bar tacked his welts too.
And the front pockets in the pair I studied were also bar tacked about 1/4″ down from the waistband, so I did that too. It helps them lay flat and it looks cool.
I loved making these pants, even though it took awhile. They were a satisfying sew!